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Lost Climbing Areas of Texas
post Jan 11 2012, 09:20 AM
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Group: CTM Officer
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Joined: 20-December 05
From: Austin
Member No.: 26

In case you missed the CTM meeting Monday here are my slides giving an overview of several climbing areas in Texas, many of which you probably haven't heard of. I'm also looking for people to be "crag champions" to do a lot of the leg work finding the landowners and following up with them on steps to get improved access. As a representative of CTM and Access Fund I would work with the crag champions and bring the resources of those organizations to help with access issues.

Medicine Wall, Colorado Bend, Weiders Wall, and White Trash Wall now have crag champions, but the other areas don't. Time to step up and be part of the solution.

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post Jan 11 2012, 02:17 PM
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From: Denver
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The beast from the deep approves! Climbed at a few of those areas over the years...

Pack Saddle, don' know if old man Stotz is still around, but we used to give him a case of beer and he would let us climb there. Goomba John negotiated our access. This was back when ERock was closed, ~1982... Some interesting stuff up there, we even guided out there. Watch for snakes, goats, and cacti. Oldman Stotz would great us wit, "you boys goin there to do some of them there rope tricks?". Very scenic place! Lots of Comanche history.

You should add the Devils Toenail nearby to your list, and there is some rock in Sandy Creek Canyon. Bull Head has always been the dream addition along with Watch Mountain... Creating a greater Enchanted Rock State Natural Area...

Pedernales has some real quality, especially on the promontory across form the rapids. We did 4 routes, all trad-protected dolomitized limestone cracks!
Hang Dog, 5.11 trad lead, Mike Lewis, left leaning crack on the right of the alcove
Super Stupid, 5.12a, tr off of Hang Dog, moi, climb out the cave joining Hang Dog
Midgets in a Jar, 5.11+, trad lead, David Head, right leaning crack, on the left with the obvious pod (jar)... We got six of us in the jar for fun...
Tunnel Vision, 5.7, solo, moi, climb the karst tube left of the promontory
Plus some really fun bouldering

I doubt Bucket Cave will ever open due to endangered salamanders... I ran away from home when I was 12 and lived there...

I think the Guadalupe River is a diamond in the rough. Same with all the Pecos stuff.

Thanks for your and everyone's effort.

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post Jan 12 2012, 07:20 PM
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Lots of Climber

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Way to go! This is an awesome initiative! It would be really cool if access to Medicine Wall could be clarified. A while back I was spending a lot of time in SA and went out to find MW. I have the GPS coordinates, but it seemed to be surrounded by "No Trespassing" signs. So I didn't bother. Again, great work and thanks
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post Mar 1 2012, 10:50 AM
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From: Colorado Springs
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Is there now rock climbing allowed at Colorado Bend State Park? I've done a ton of caving there with mapping, surveying, and just exploring. Sure would be cool if you could climb, too!
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