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Oh I love the ridges, Ridge climbin'
careyjd
post May 15 2017, 07:06 PM
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Finally had success! Got a 2 week window with a solid 6 days off, ended up getting in 20+ pitches and over 4000 feet of climbing, 3 summits in 2 states! 2 TR's below and some pics, maybe I'll get some videos up later.

5/4 thru 5/7 2017 Sandias - Knife edge ridge of the shield 5.2 1000 feet, SW ridge of the pulpit 5.5 800 feet

Tony and I got away for a climbing trip finally. JP flew in to meet us in ABQ. I wasn't going to TDA on Friday, so took a half day and voila, 3.5 days of freedom. Tony came over around 230 Thursday, and we packed and left. Took a pit stop in Lubbock, ate my mom's home cooking and crashed in my old room. Woke at 2am, drove into ABQ and geared up at TH at Piedra Lisa parking lot at 8am. JP was waiting. Only took 30 minutes to gear up, and we were off down the Piedra Lisa TH. Apporached the knife edge, took about 2 hrs, I think we got on the Rincon trail. We just bushwacked towards ridge, soloed some sketch 5th class choss and gaines the Knife edge. Donned harnesses and rack, and began simulcliming up 5.0 ridge climbing, I was leading. We made pretty good time, awesome climbing. Got to the W area, and it lived up for it's reputation. Either a 6 foot jump over a knife edge section to a tiny boulder ,or a 10 foot downclimb and back up to that boulder. We opted the later. JP led across the W and up the small headwall (5.2 climbing). He set an anchor and brought us up, we did that for 2 more pitches then topped out on the knife edge. About 800 feet of ridge climbing, some areas where literally a knife edge. Took a 30 min lunch break on top and aired the feet out. Attempted to find the rappel to the catwalk , started in wrong spot to reach catwalk. JP had to jug the whole rope. So we began the bushwack from hell to try and find the crest trail that would lead us, hopefully, to the crest house and some food and water, since we were out of both. Very dense bushwacking, soloing up cliff bands, 2 hrs later we found the crest trail. Mostly snow on the trail, which made for great hiking in my approach shoes. JP was bonked. Made it to the crest trail after another hour of hiking. Time was 540pm , crest house was closed. No water fountains, no food, and 3 hrs down la luz to our trucks. We met some Marines that were finishing up their drills. Met a super nice guy, classic marine, dude was jacked, close cut hair and oakleys in Marine fatigues. He was overly nice, and offered to drive us 30 min back to our car. He ordered his unit to not follow him and go back to base. Ends up, the dude is an avid climber. So we talked the whole way about climbing, he plans on doing Mt Rainier w/ RMI this fall. Made it back to the trucks and decided to go into town for food. Went to county line and grubbed and drank beer. Got back to trucks at 9pm, Tony and I slept in the truck bed, very warm and nice! JP bivied. Woke up 7am, and discussed the plan. I shot down the thumb and opted for the Pulpit. No one argued. SO we drove to La luz TH, hiked up La Luz for a hard 2.5 hrs directly to base of the pulpit. Soloed the first 200 feet, then I led 1 pitch. JP took over leading and led the crux pitch, some 5.5 moves and a 5.4 chimney. Fun climbing, the end of the chimney brought us to a bathroom sized summit. Probably 600 feet of climbing. I found the rap anchor,a huge mess of cordellete and chains. It gave us a spicy free hanging full 70m rappel. Pulling the rope shot a rock off that literllaly landed a foot from JP, and he had taken his helemt off. Crappy descent, 3 more rappels down dirty wet gullies. Got back to packs and hiked down La Luz. Found a grill at a La Luz campsite, and we grilled my foil dinners and drank beer. WE all decided we wanted a shower, so we split a cheap hotel. Slept pretty good, Tony and I had to leave early to pick up Meg and Levi at Hard 8 in Stephenville. We made our 3pm deadline, picked up the family and made it in to SA. Last picture is the Thumb, our next project (5 pitches 5.6 plus 500 feet class 3 scrambling to summit).

5/11-5//14 - 2nd Flatiron and Guides Ridge Mt Crested Butte, 5.2 1200 feet Grade II

With the cancelation of eric and I's mt shasta trip, I needed to get something else in the works soon. Had to get an act of Congress to have the Sacramento airfare refunded even though I bought an extra cancelation policy. In the end I got an extra 120 though! So next plan, climb the guides ridge! A worthy alpine objective, especially in spring conditions. This would be a perfect progression of my climbing career, a technical (5.2) route on a high peak with snow and ice. Needless to say I was very excited. Hot off training and climbing in the sandias the week before, I was feeling good. Who else to call then lauren and raul to climb with. Lauren just opened her brand new practice yesterday, and I was itching to see it. Fast forward, I arrive denver at 4pm thursday , get a sweet 4x4 2017 f1150. I drove into boulder, pulled in to walnut brewery, ordered a pizza and beer, watched the spurs demolish the Rockets in game7, and researched the flatirons. I found a route perfect for guiding rob and ruth. Freeway on the 2nd flatiron. 800 feet 5.0. Called rob, l they're in , meet 7am. After brownie dessert, thought I need to get out and mingle in boulder. Walked around a little, then decided to check out the flatirons. A 4 minute drive got me to the base of the flatirons, ridiculous. Met a guy in the parking lot that just soloed the same route I wanted to do. I went up and easily found the 2nd flatiron, the route literally starts on the trail. By the time I got there, it was already getting dark. So I sat for awhile and gazed over the city lights at night, beautiful. 2 soloists started up in the dark. Went down back to the truck, bought supplies and scouted my options for my hotel, the back seat of my truck. went into a college party neighborhood where cars are coming and going all hours of the night, and got some decent sleep.

Woke, ate Einstein bagels, and drove to trailhead and met rob and ruth. got going early, made it to the base, and realized they don't have harness. Since approach is so close and there is a rei on every block, we bought a harness and kale chips, and were climbing by 10. Climbing was super fun and easy, albeit a little slow since they are beginners. Soloist were passing us left and right. We got behind a Group of older climbers out for a Sunday stroll. I passed them after they denied me a belay station. Kept moving up pitch after pitch, right below the jump they informed me they had to be somewhere at 2 and it was 130. Rob wanted to bail, and i told him rapping the route would take 5 hrs and be dangerous. We decided to get up to the jump move. The older group was there, they passed us on our lunch. They were discussing their decent. Leader knew a way down from there. Turns out they are all teachers at cmc. They graciously involved us in the conversation and let us rap their rope. We did our own 2nd rap amd made it to the truck by 4. We immediately both left and I headed to new castle.

Saw glenwood canyon, amazing. Met raul and lauren at 7, got the grand tour of the office, a really unique place, perfect for new castle. 2 ops, and they bought the building. It was built in the 1800s, and they live in the 2nd story loft. Place was like a rei exploded, gear and stuff everywhere. House is basically one big room, not even a bedroom for anyone. Ordered a pizza, the shop was next door, and began packing. Got their 1989 van packed down, and made way to cb. Arrived at 130, slept till 300 and woke, packed gear and took off at 400. an hour in, Lauren decided t bail due to her boots not fitting well. Approach line basically goes up the ski lift. We cramponed on crust snow the whole way up. We gained the ridge in about 3 hours. Raul wanted me to lead the entire route and guide him, which I was ok with. We climbed steep snow to get higher adjacent to the ridge. We had a mixed snow/ice/rock 50 foot step to gain the ridge. I climbed it in pons and brought Raul up. From here, we took off pons and simul-climbed most of the ridge in mountaineering boots (difficulties up to 5.5). He belayed me in the few 5.5 10 foot moves, but most of it was huge room sized flakes and the knife edge ridge with occasional snow ramps. Couple of areas had very high exposure traversing across truck sized flakes as thin as a dinner plate. Just slung the ridge for the running belay. Took a small lunch break about 200 feet from summit, then finished out through a tight chimney squeeze then class 4 to top. Summit was about the size of a kitchen, had snow and a few plaques from crested butte. We took photos, Raul brought his Spurs finger up. We then contemplated the descent. No way we were going to rap the route. There was a static line down the NW face. We could see a class 2 scramble down a talus field below the rap, then from there looks like a big neighborhood sized snow field and bowl below. Rapped off the static line, prob 11mm, wouldn't even fit in my ATC, so rigged a munter. The rap was about 40 foot, but was a headwall of ice and snow. The snow was corniced, and there was a hole through the cornice we could see through, below that hole was a 1000 foot snow wall down in the bowl, very spicy rap! We made good way down the trail ,then traversed the steep snow wall for about 600 feet and finally reached the upper saddle we could see when we started the ridge. Glissaded and down climbed boulders for 2 hours to get back to ski lift and then 1hr hike back to the resort. Met Lauren at the bottom, grabbed some celebration brews and ate burgers in Crested Butte. Overall was a wonderful climb, high exposure, fantastic ridge climbing, and high exhilaration for Raul and I when would get on a knife edge section with our Nepal evos smearing across! The alpine conditions were exactly what we wanted to push our skill set forward.

This post has been edited by careyjd: May 16 2017, 07:19 AM
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careyjd
post May 15 2017, 07:13 PM
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for some reason pics are turned, but if you click on them they come up straight

This post has been edited by careyjd: May 15 2017, 07:13 PM
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billh
post Jun 10 2017, 08:22 PM
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What a great two weeks in the mountains. Thanks for posting.
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